Der Camino Primitivo ist der ursprüngliche Jakobsweg: der Pfad, den König Alfons II. von Asturien im Jahr 814 ging, um als erster Pilger das neu entdeckte Grab des Apostels Jakobus in Compostela zu besuchen.
Mit 313 km und 14 Etappen ab Oviedo ist er der gebirgigste aller Jakobswege. Er durchquert die beeindruckenden asturischen Berge mit erheblichen Höhenunterschieden und Landschaften von unvergleichlicher wilder Schönheit.
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First stage of the Primitive Way. You depart from the cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo, where medieval pilgrims began their journey. The path crosses historic city neighborhoods before entering the Asturian countryside, passing through Escamplero and Peñaflor. Rolling terrain with moderate ups and downs through chestnut forests and green meadows. Grado is a well-serviced town with a porticoed square perfect for resting.
A stage through the heart of Asturias. From Grado the path climbs toward Doriga and continues along trails between rural villages with traditional granaries (hórreos). You pass through Cornellana, where the ancient Benedictine monastery of San Salvador deserves a stop. The landscape alternates between gentle valleys and wooded hills. Salas is a historic town with a medieval tower and the collegiate church of Santa María la Mayor.
The most mountainous section of the Primitive Way begins. From Salas you ascend through oak and chestnut forests to the Alto de La Espina (670 m), with panoramic views of the Asturian interior. The descent to Tineo is demanding but rewarding. Tineo is a welcoming town with the nearby monastery of San Juan Bautista de Obona and good pilgrim services. A tough but spectacular stage.
A short but intense stage through the mountainous heart of Asturias. The path climbs to Puerto del Palo (1,146 m), one of the highest points on the Primitive Way, with stunning views on clear days. You pass through Borres and tiny hamlets where time seems to stand still. Pola de Allande is a quiet town in a valley bottom, with the Cienfuegos palace and a municipal hostel. A stage to enjoy at a slow pace.
The flagship stage of the Primitive Way. You climb to the mythical Puerto del Palo and then to Lago de La Cueva, a wild natural beauty spot. The path winds along ridges with views of deep valleys and endless mountains. You cross Berducedo, a tiny hamlet with a hostel. La Mesa is a small settlement at altitude with spectacular views. A long and very demanding stage, but the most memorable of the Primitivo.
A shorter stage offering respite after the previous day's toughness. A long descent from La Mesa to the Salime reservoir, whose dam impresses with its size. You pass the Ethnographic Museum of Grandas, one of the best in Asturias on traditional rural life. Grandas de Salime is the last major Asturian town before entering Galicia. Good hostels and services. Take the chance to recover your strength.
The transition stage between Asturias and Galicia. You cross the regional border at Puerto de Acebo, a symbolic moment on the Way. The landscape gradually changes: the first pallozas (round stone dwellings) appear and the green intensifies. A long and demanding stage with considerable accumulated elevation change. A Fonsagrada is the first important Galician town, with its own character and good services. Its hostel is welcoming.
The terrain begins to soften as you enter Galicia. From A Fonsagrada you walk along forest tracks and paths between Galician hamlets with stone cruceiros (crosses). You pass through Padrón and various scattered parishes. The landscape is of gentle hills covered in eucalyptus, pine and meadows. O Cádavo (Baleira) is a small town but with a renovated hostel and bar where pilgrims gather. A transition stage toward kinder terrain.
The longest stage on the Primitive Way, but the reward is great: you arrive in Lugo, a UNESCO World Heritage city. The path runs along Galician rural roads, crossing small hamlets and forests. The arrival in Lugo is thrilling: you enter through the Porta de San Pedro, crossing the Roman wall — the best preserved in the world. Walking the entire wall (2 km), visiting the cathedral and trying the octopus are musts. Many hostels available.
After the intensity of the Asturian mountains, this stage is a peaceful walk across the Lugo plateau. You leave Lugo through the Porta de Santiago and the path extends along tracks between meadows and small hamlets like Bacurín. Flat and pleasant terrain, ideal for recovering your legs. San Romao da Retorta is a rural parish with a 12th-century Romanesque church worth visiting. Small but cozy hostel. A stage of active rest.
A long stage that brings you to the junction with the Camino Francés. The path passes through Ponte Ferreira and various hamlets with rural Romanesque churches. The landscape is of gentle hills and eucalyptus forests. Upon arriving in Melide, you join the stream of Francés pilgrims — the change is noticeable after the Primitivo's solitude. Melide is famous for its octopus: the pulperías in the square are an essential stop. Abundant hostels. From here you share the route with the Francés all the way to Santiago.
A short and comfortable stage, shared with the Camino Francés. The path runs through eucalyptus and oak forests, crossing streams over small medieval bridges. You pass through Boente, with its church of Santiago, and Castañeda, where limestone was once smelted for Santiago's cathedral. Arzúa is known for its cheese (Arzúa-Ulloa designation of origin) — don't leave without trying it. Many hostels and good dining options. An ideal stage for taking it slow.
The penultimate stage before Santiago. The path continues along trails through eucalyptus groves and small Galician hamlets. A stage without major technical difficulties but with the growing excitement of being one day from Santiago. You pass through Santa Irene, with its fountain said to have healing properties, and O Pedrouzo (Arca), a town that lives for the Camino. Many pilgrims dine together the night before arrival. Hostels of all types available.
The final stage. Many pilgrims set off early to arrive in time for the pilgrim's mass at the cathedral (12:00). The path passes through Lavacolla (where medieval pilgrims washed before entering the city), climbs to Monte do Gozo (from where you see Santiago for the first time — a moment of pure emotion) and descends into the city. The entrance through the old town streets to the Plaza del Obradoiro and the cathedral is the culminating moment of the entire Primitive Way. You made it.
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